b'Local Artist,New CaperBringing Italian cooks secret ingredient home to Americas kitchens BY ROSE BENNETT GILBERTStalking the wild caper bush: John Savittieri discovers the source of the little flower bud that adds a wallop of flavor to almost any Italian dishand anyones dry martini. Photo credit: Patrizia Draghetti.A lmost everyone returns from athey have long been featured in such Italian classicswater on the island is rainwater caught in cisterns European vacation with sou- as chicken piccata and cacciatore, and are essentialon the curved roofs of the damusi (traditional lava-venirs, but South Orange na- for legendary sauces on salmon, say, and other piecesstone farmhouses)the capers are hand-picked and tive John Savittieri brought ade resistance. Capers also brighten Beef Carpaccio, whole new career home in histhose wispy-thin veils of raw filet famously served suitcase last year when he vis- up to the likes of Ernest Hemingway and Evelyn itedthetinyvolcanicislandWaugh(andGeorgeClooney,WoodyAllenand of Pantelleria, Sicily, in the Mediterranean Sea. Anthony Bourdain) at Harrys Bar in Venice. More-Savittieris suitcase was crammed with a harvestover, of late, enlightened bartenders the world over of edible treasures from the small, rocky farms onare beginning to pop caper berriesthe larger ver-theisland,wheretheharshsoil,relentlesswinds,sion of caper budsinto dry martinis instead of the and hot sun combine perfectly to nurture capers,sameoldsameold olives. the secret ingredient that adds a big burst of flavorSavittieri says he was instantly intrigued by caper to many a dish on tables all through the Mediter- culture while he was first vacationing on Pantelle-ranean. The unopened buds of the shaggy, sprawlingria two years ago. The island is especially celebrated Spinosa bush, which thrives in Pantellerias challeng- among Italian cooks for its exquisite, small, and fla- Surrounded by terraces green with caper bushes, a typi-ing climate, capers are relatively unknown and sadlyvorful piccoli capers. Carefully cultivated on minis- cal damuso (farmhouse) is made of lava stone, a major building material on the island, thanks to Pantellerias unsung by many of the worlds other cuisines. Butcule plots under fierce conditionsthe only freshancient volcano. 38/ matters magazine / spring 2023'