b'food mattersA Beautiful Takeon the SeasonVietnamese Summer RollsBY ILYSSE RIMALOVSKIA s bunches of mint, cucum- many home cooks find it helpful to double up bers and tender lettuces fillthe wrappers when first getting started. Another backyard gardens and farm- trick is to first create lettuce bundles that keep the ersmarkets,wenaturallyloose ingredients together. From there, its a gentle crave the foods that reflectburrito-like fold and roll. The wrapper practically the vitality of the season. seals itself.VietnamesesummerWhen buying rice paper (bnh trng), look for rolls(gicun)aretheidealportablesummerround sheets 8.5 inches (22 cm) in diameter, typi-lunch or light appetizer, requiring minimal cook- cally sold in plastic packages. Check for broken or ing and maximum freshness. brittle edges, which can make rolling harder.Served chilled with a dipping sauce, these rollsWhen buying rice vermicelli (bn), look for are traditionally stuffed with rice vermicelli, rawthin rice noodles, not to be confused with bean shredded vegetables, herbs and a protein such asthread noodles, which are more transparent and shrimp or pork. springy. The ingredient list should indicate mostly Originating in southern Vietnam, where therice flour and water. These quick-cookingnoodles tropical climate calls for cooling meals, summerwill soften after 23 minutes in hot water, no boil-rolls are often an entry point for diners new to theing necessary.cuisine. Vietnamese culinary philosophy balancesBeanthreadnoodles(oftenlabeledasglass flavor (sweet, salty, sour, bitter and umami) withnoodles, cellophane noodles or mung bean ver-texture (crunchy, tender, chewy) and temperature. micelli) are a fine substitute that will change the Summer rolls are easy to prepare, gluten-freetexture and look of the summer rolls slightly. Rice andendlesslycustomizable.DIYsummerrollvermicelli is the traditional choice in Vietnamese platters have become popular at gatherings, wherecuisine.everyone gets to choose their own fillings. Forinspirationclosetohome,sampletheCombine shredded pork and sliced avocadosummer rolls at Saigon Caf in Millburn, a ca-withaboldlyflavoredfishsauce.Orcombinesual restaurant that features authentic Vietnamese shrimp with bean sprouts and sliced mango dippedspecialties. While ingredients such as rice paper in sweet and sour sauce. A vegetarian version mayand rice vermicelli are readily available at most su-featuretofuwithpermarkets in international aisles, Gold Valley in apeanutbutterSpringfield and Kam Man Foods in East Hanover dipping sauce.are excellent resources for Asian pantry staples.Whatsmore,The following recipe for Vietnamese Summer summerrollsareRollsleavesroomforimprovisation,accompa-beautiful,espe- nied by a peanut dipping sauce. Dont worry if ciallywhenlocalyour first few rolls arent perfect. Keep your hands produceisatitsslightly damp and your fillings light. The rice pa-peak.Thetrans- per is forgiving once you get the hang of it. lucentricepaperIlysse Rimalovski is a well-seasoned home chef, writer wrappersshowoffwhatsinside.PictureaneatandculinaryproducerlivinginMaplewoodand row of shrimp with purple basil leaves and edibleteaching cooking workshops at the Maplewood Senior flowers. Center. Have food questions or need inspiration? Vis-Ifyourenewtoworkingwithricepaper,ait Ilysses Facebook page, Ilysse Ideally, or send email quick dip in warm water will soften the wrapper.to forilysse@icloud.com.Butthesheetsaredelicate. Topreventtearing, 28/ matters magazine / summer 2025'