b'food mattersNot So SecretIngredientsTransforming ordinary recipes into memorable dishesBY ILYSSE RIMALOVSKIC anyourecallthemo- meaty. It prompts the question, Whats in this? Ilysses Not So Secret IngredientsmentwhenyouateaMykitcheniswell-stockedwithsubtleand newingredientthatmighty ingredients that can transform ordinary rec-changed what you crave? ipes into memorable dishes. I love wandering the As a child, I loved theaisles of grocery stores, scanning unfamiliar prod- For added umami, these ingredients add experienceofdiscover- ucts and imagining the possibilities. This week, Ia savory depth without making the dish ingnewfoodsandfla- picked up black vinegar, fenugreek seeds and fruitytaste fishy: soy sauce, miso paste, anchovy vors. I can still taste my first numbing mouthfulolive oil. Who knows what they will become? paste, fish sauce, tahini, olives, capers, of Szechuan peppercorns, the brininess of curedPerhaps you are swirling some miso paste intodried mushrooms, parmesan cheese, blackolives(notthecannedCaliforniakind)Caesar salad dressing or salmon marinade. Or add- nutritional yeast and kombu (dried sea-and that bite of unripe persimmon that left mying capers, olives and lemon to roasted potatoes. Iweed) tongue feeling otherworldly. may mix hot sauce and brown sugar into a can of Iremembermymomteachingmehowtobaked beans. Secret ingredients need not be flashy.For balance, these ingredients brighten scrapeartichokeleavesthroughmyteethandThey just need to make the familiar taste new. flavors and smooth acidity: vinegars (a vast how to crack a crab claw with a wooden mallet toMany secret ingredients are flavor enhancers:array), citrus juice and zest, hot sauces, free the delicate meat. My aunts fruit salad was aumami,salt,fat,acidity,bitterness,aromaandwine and sweeteners (honey, sugar, maple revelation with the addition of lychees and theirspice. They create balance and complexity. I tastesyrup and fruit, especially canned lychees)floral syrup.as I cook, making adjustments until the resulting Over time, I would teach myself to appreciatedish pleases my senses. For richness, these ingredients add fresh beets, blue cheese and oysters. Id make saladThefollowingroastedpotatorecipeisbothroundness and texture: soup stocks and dressing for my family that was vinegar-forward.familiarandsurprising,concentrates, fats (olive oil, butter, ghee, Id turn ketchup, horseradish and Tabasco intowithbrinypunchesofcream, mayonnaise, yogurt and avocado), cocktail sauce that was pleasingly sweet and hot. flavorinapiccata-styleDijon mustard and fresh breadcrumbsId use soy sauce with abandon. lemon-capersauce.The As an adult, my palate has become optimizedfinalflourishwillbeaFor freshness and color, add aromatics, for balance and surprise. I still find it thrilling tosprinkleofflakedseaherbs and spices:encounter unique culinary experiences and sharesalt,atwistofgroundOnions, shallots (a subtler flavor them with others. Sometimes its as easy as open- pepper,choppedfreshcompared to onions), garlic, leeks, ing up a jar. herbsandlemonzest.ginger, celery, carrots, hot peppers MyfavoritesecretingredientsincludetheAnd whatever else is upand horseradishpleasure of cooking for people gathered aroundyour sleeve. Fresh herbs (parsley, cilantro, dill, the table, the care that goes into crafting a mean- The list on the right ismint, rosemary and tarragon) and ingful meal and the curiosity to experiment withfor reference and reflectsherb oilsnew products, plating and settings. what I keep on hand in my own kitchen. For anHigh-quality spices (everything from I am always building my understanding of in- adventure outside of SOMA, visit Kalustyans inallspice to zaatar). I depend heavily gredients that layer flavor into humbler combina- NYC, my not-so-secret resource for the worldson Maldon Sea Salt Flakes and whole tions. When my friend Danielle served her home- most beloved secret ingredients.black peppercorns.made chocolate chip ice cream, the inclusion ofIlysse Rimalovski is a well-seasoned home chef, writ-tahini, malt and sea salt redefined what I crave. er and recipe developer living in Maplewood. Have It often comes down to umamia fifth tastefood questions or need inspiration? Send a note to that describes a depth of flavor that is savory andforilysse@icloud.com.36/ matters magazine / fall 2025'